How Boots Got Kinky

How boots got Kinky, from fashion statements, their symbolic role in performance and identity, and their prominent presence in popular culture.

I. “Kinky Boots”: Fashion, Gender, and Identity
The concept of “kinky boots” emerges as a central theme, exploring how this specific type of footwear challenges traditional gender norms and became a symbol of personal expression and commercial success.

A. The Song “Kinky Boots” and its Themes:

How Boots Got Kinky

The song “Kinky Boots” by Patrick MacNee & Honor Blackman directly addresses a fashion trend, suggesting a widespread adoption of these boots, particularly by women. The lyrics imply a playful, yet assertive, shift in style:

“everybody’s going for those kinky boots kinky boots kinky boots it’s a manly kind of fashion that you borrowed from the roofs”
The song highlights the commercial success of this trend: “20 million women wearing kinky boots kinky boots puss in boots footwear manufacturers are gathering the fruits gathering the fruits”
It also associates “kinky boots” with a transformation from “frumpy little beat girl square” to “cool sexy little kinky boots leather is so kinky,” emphasizing their role in enhancing attractiveness and confidence.
B. The True Story Behind “Kinky Boots” and its Adaptations:
The “Kinky Boots” narrative, depicted in film and musical, is rooted in a real-life story of a traditional shoe factory adapting to produce women’s boots for men and cross-dressers. This transformation was not merely commercial but deeply personal and cultural.

The blue plaque unveiling for Lacies Fantasy Girl shop in Folkestone commemorates Sue Sheppard, who “originally contacted Steve [Pateman] with the idea of making women’s shoes and boots for men and cross-dressers.” This directly links the “kinky boots” phenomenon to the needs of the cross-dressing community.
The initial skepticism from the traditional factory staff (“Steve, and some equally wary staff were eventually able to accept the concept of high-heeled thigh boots”) underscores the societal norms being challenged by this product.
The success of this venture saved the factory, leading to a film and then a Broadway musical, demonstrating the compelling nature of this story of embracing difference for business and personal fulfillment. Steve Pateman, the “original ‘Charlie’,” even released a book titled ‘Boss in Boots- From Barton to Broadway,’ further solidifying the narrative’s impact.
The presence of “Cross-dressers, drag queens, and trans persons” at the plaque unveiling signifies the importance of this story to the LGBTQ+ community, recognizing the boots as a means of expressing their identity.
C. The Market for “Fantasy Girl” Footwear:

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The existence of online retailers like “Fantasy Girl Shopping” and “Pleaser Shoes” dedicated to various types of boots, including those specifically “made on a mans last,” indicates a robust market catering to individuals, including cross-dressers, seeking specific footwear for identity expression or performance.

“Fantasy Girl Shopping” explicitly states, “All our boots are made on a mans last,” directly addressing the fit requirements for individuals with traditionally male foot structures.
Both retailers offer a wide variety of “ladies boots” including “ankle, knee and thigh boots” with diverse heel heights (“three inch heel to 6 inch heels” or up to “10-inch” heels), materials, and styles, reinforcing the idea of boots as a key element in transforming or expressing a feminine aesthetic.
The categories offered by “Fantasy Girl Shopping” such as “Transform He To She” which includes “Gaffs,” “Hip and Bum Pads,” and “Wearable Vaginas,” alongside footwear, further contextualizes these boots within the broader world of gender expression and transformation.
II. “Boots” in Performance, History, and Pop Culture
Beyond the “kinky” aspect, boots, particularly knee-high boots, have a rich history as functional items that evolved into powerful fashion and cultural symbols, appearing in diverse contexts from ancient times to contemporary media.

A. Historical Evolution of Knee-High Boots:
Knee-high boots have a long and practical history before becoming a fashion statement, primarily associated with protection and function, especially for men.

Early depictions date back “12,000 to 15,000 years ago” in Spanish cave paintings.
In Europe, they gained prominence in the “15th century as riding boots, initially for men,” offering “leg protection during horseback activities.”
Their functional role extended to warfare, with “thigh-length boots” being adopted by “heavy cavalry for protection” after the decline of armor.
The term “bootlegging” itself originates from the practice of concealing items in these boots, highlighting their long-standing use for discreet carrying.

B. “These Boots Are Made for Walkin'” – An Enduring Cultural Icon:

Nancy Sinatra’s “These Boots Are Made for Walkin'” is presented as a seminal song that has transcended its original release to become a recurring motif in various forms of media, often signifying empowerment, attitude, or a distinct persona.

The song was a major hit, reaching “No. 1 in the United States Billboard Hot 100 and in the UK Singles Chart.”
Its enduring appeal is evident in the “many cover versions of the song… in a range of styles: metal, pop, rock, punk rock, country, dance, and industrial,” including notable versions by Megadeth, Billy Ray Cyrus, and Jessica Simpson.
Its widespread use in popular culture spans decades and genres:
Film: Stanley Kubrick’s Full Metal Jacket, Natural Born Killers, Austin Powers: International Man of Mystery, The Mexican, Ocean’s 8, and Disney’s Cruella.
Television: Family Guy (“Quagmire’s Dad”) and Funny Woman.
Advertising: Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company used it for a “wide boots” ad campaign.
Cultural Commentary: Pitchfork Media selected it as the “114th best song of the 1960s,” with critic Tom Breihan calling it “maybe the finest bitchy kiss-off in pop history.”
Unconventional Use:

The FBI played the song on loudspeakers during the 1993 Waco standoff “in an attempt to torment Koresh and his followers.”
Contemporary Relevance: Interpolated and sampled on Beyoncé’s 2024 album Cowboy Carter and covered by Sabrina Carpenter and Kacey Musgraves at Outside Lands Festival in 2024, demonstrating its continued cultural impact.

C. Boots in Pantomime and Cross-Dressing Performance:
Pantomime, a traditional British theatrical form, uniquely incorporates boots, specifically knee-high leather boots, into its cross-dressing traditions, serving both aesthetic and historical purposes.

The “Principal Boy” role in pantomime is “Traditionally… always played by a female, although the role is that of a boy hero.” This female character “usually dresses in short, tight-fitting skirts accompanied by knee-high leather boots and fishnet stockings.”
This specific costuming had a historical purpose: “In ages past when female attire went all the way down to the ankles. The principal boy role provided a marvellous to display a shapely pair of limbs and to increase the male audience.” This highlights how boots could be used to emphasize specific aspects of the female form within a male-coded role.
This tradition is a “sole survivor of the male impersonator in the theatre,” demonstrating the enduring power of this specific gender-bending performance, even surviving the “swinging sixties when old traditions came under attack.”

Summary of Kinky Boots As Culture Icons
The sources collectively illustrate that boots, particularly “kinky” and knee-high variations, are far more than mere footwear. They represent:

Fashion and Sexuality: A symbol of evolving fashion, challenging traditional norms, and enhancing attractiveness and sex appeal.
Identity and Expression: Crucial elements for individuals, including cross-dressers, to express their identity and perform gender.
Cultural Iconography: A consistent presence in popular culture through hit songs, films, and advertising, often conveying themes of empowerment, attitude, and individuality.
Historical Legacy: From ancient practical use to their unique role in theatrical traditions like pantomime, boots have a deep and varied history, reflecting societal changes and enduring cultural practices.
The narrative of “Kinky Boots” in particular serves as a powerful microcosm of these broader themes, showcasing how a specific type of footwear can drive both commercial success and significant social and cultural dialogue around identity and acceptance.

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